Last week was a big news week for Burma (Myanmar). The two stories making headlines were the first “democratic” elections in over 20 years, which were widely dismissed as a sham, and six days later the military junta finally releasing Aung San Suu Kyi, Nobel Peace Prize winner and, let’s not forget, the country’s rightful prime minster. Suu Kyi spent 15 of the past 21 years under house arrest after she and her party, the National League for Democracy (NLD), overwhelmingly won elections in 1990. According to the BBC, some 2,200 political prisoners are still being held in prisons and labor camps, 413 of whom are NLD members, “many serving sentences of several decades after trials with no or very limited access to legal representation.”

But there was a third story, prior to the election, that barely saw a blip of coverage in mainstream media: the NLD officially eased its hotly debated, 14 year plea for a total travel boycott in Burma. In response to the military’s 1996 “Visit Myanmar” tourism campaign, Suu Kyi and the NLD called for the travel boycott, ostensibly to keep tourism revenue out of the generals’ pockets. Ever since, an intense debate has raged both inside Burma and abroad about the wisdom of a comprehensive boycott. Pro-tourism arguments gained traction in 2003 when the generals uncharacteristically made independent travel in Burma easier by eliminating the FEC (Foreign Exchange Certificates), a pretend currency that all arriving tourists were required to purchase (a whopping US$200 worth), which could only be spent at a precious few government-approved hotels, tour companies and transportation conglomerates.

While the NLD still discourages package tours in Burma, they’ve now given their full blessing for independent tourism. It should be noted that even the most determined independent tourist can’t avoid at least a fraction of their money going to the government, yet with a little research it’s relatively easy to ensure that the majority of one’s money goes to private tourism operators, hotels and transport.

Rice farmers in Burma – Photo credit

I visited Burma in 2005 and again in 2008. Logistics were challenging, comfort was scant and witnessing the living conditions of everyday Burmese was sobering. Yet both trips yielded some of the most poignant and extraordinary travel experiences I’ve had in over 20 years of international travel in 45 countries. Though part of the pure joy of traveling Burma is finding oneself to be the only foreigner in the area at any given time, Burma has, by it’s humble standards, a beaten path which I followed to the letter in 2005 and whole-heartedly recommend to people with two weeks in the country.

Yangon

In classic paranoid, bizarro, military junta fashion, the generals relieved Yangon of its capital city designation in 2005 and built a new administrative capital 200 miles north in Naypyidaw. Yet, Yangon remains the economic center of the country and the point of arrival for the majority of tourists. It’s chaotic and crumbling, yet still retains a very palpable provincial feel. Enticements include the ominously named but totally benign Black Market and the central, golden, 1,000 year old Sule Paya (Temple). The hands-down most breathtaking site in Yangon is however, the vast, opulent Shwedagon Paya, or Golden Pagoda. Devote a full day to Shwedagon and a few more for random wandering.

Shwedagon Paya, Yangon - Photo credit

Mandalay

The city itself is a bit of a hectic, polluted mess, however it’s blessed with an incredible collection of pagodas (temples) and the government-run, moated Fort and Palace. The villages around Mandalay warrant a few days of exploration as well. Highlights include Mingon, reached via an hour-long, upriver ferry, featuring the truly enormous Mingon Paya, and Amarapura, with the impressive 1.2 km-long, wooden U Bein Bridge.

U Bein Bridge – Photo credit

Inle Lake

The remoteness, surreal surroundings and time-warp sensation around Inle Lake’s stilt villages and water fields should be enjoyed at the most leisurely pace you can manage without coming to a permanent halt. You can cover serious ground by hiring a motor boat, though a day or two of idle canoeing is also recommended.

Inle Lake – Photo credit

Bagan

I advise people to leave Bagan for last, because, and I’m not even remotely exaggerating here, this place will blow your tutti-frutti mind. Comparable to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat in sheer, dumbfounding scale, the Archaeological Zone, an area of 16 square miles, is awash with over 3,000 temples, some excellently preserved, others reduced to brick piles (a massive earthquake in 1975 did significant damage). Strangely, while the bulk of the temples were built between the 11th and 13th centuries, new ones continue to appear – apparently Buddhist guilt is no less powerful now that in ancient times. The temples range in size from tool sheds to apartment complexes and thoroughly touring the area, preferably by bike or horse cart, will take several dedicated days.

Photo credit

Logistics note: Most people traveling to Burma make the trip in two stages – flying into a major Southeast Asian hub, then purchasing a separate ticket to Yangon. This is for two reasons: firstly this tactic is usually much cheaper, secondly, it’s a good idea to have a layover with buffer time when traveling in and out of Burma, in case there are any difficulties or delays with your flights. Thailand is a popular staging area for travel to/from Burma, particularly with the attractions and good value hotels in Bangkok.

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