Charming and vibrant, Brighton has reinvented itself in recent decades to become a hub of culture, fashion and fun. Once the destination of choice for the London gentry, Brighton has overcome its retro funk since being rediscovered by the new London gentry – those trendy creative types who take advantage of the easy commute to have their London cakes and eat them too. In Brighton. (Well, it was either going to be Brighton or Croydon, so it wasn’t much of a contest.)

Brighton Pier, the Royal Pavilion and the brightly painted beach huts that line Hove Promenade on Brighton Beach are national treasures. The nudist beach, happily, remains a national joke that we’re actually bizarrely proud of. And from shopping for antiques in The Lanes to gallivanting around in glitter during Brighton Pride, the city has a heart of pure energy pumping endless entertainment and creativity through its veins.

Like most places that are favoured as ‘lifestyle choices’ for crowd-weary city-folk, there’s an air of appreciation in Brighton, as though its residents take pause more often than most to enjoy the lives they’ve chosen – and as a result festivals, quality restaurants and quirky bars abound. Brighton is the place to enjoy the innovation and buzz of London without the anxiety, and the relaxed pace of seaside living without the hoards of retirees.

The only question is: does the fact that Norman Cook (aka Fatboy Slim) lives there cancel out the fact that Simon Cowell was born there. In the interests of Cool Britannia’s international reputation, we certainly hope so!

North Laine

This is Brighton’s cultural district and the place where you can soak up all the local creative energy. Grab a coffee and make a day of strolling in and out of some quality little galleries, boutiques and museums. The Royal Pavilion is a must-see – and a guided tour is well worth the money. If you think the Royals are scandalous these days (we’re talking to you, Pippa ‘Commando’ Middleton), check out what they got up to in the 1800s. The Pavilion was built by the Prince Regent – as played by Hugh Laurie in Blackadder III.

North Laine is also home to a fantastic array of restaurants or cafés, serving up everything from vegetarian, sustainable fare to pub grub at its best. Finish the day at the Theatre Royal, one of the oldest and most regal theatres in the country. Brighton’s arts scene puts out an endless stream of quality theatre each year, so if you get the chance to take in a show you won’t regret it!

Seaside

Fun is mandatory at Brighton’s core of commotion. Run around on Brighton Beach (skinny dipping is virtually compulsory after a few bevvies – regardless of whether or not you’re at the designated nudist area) and let the rides on Brighton Pier play with your breakfast. And check out SEALIFE, the oldest aquarium in the country, and still one of the most impressive. Here’s where you can get up close and personal with fish that isn’t battered and wrapped in newspaper (which still happens in Brighton, rather than those horrible plastic trays that don’t absorb the vinegar properly).

The Lanes

Right in the heart of the city, this intricately woven area of narrow alleyways and streets hosts a bevy of shops, cafes, galleries and charming little bars and pubs. You can find everything from antiques and crafts to jewellery and local label boutiques… along with a hoard of people. The winding alleyways and pokey shops can take their toll after a while, so make sure you take a breather from the shopping with a hot cup of tea and enjoy the sound of the many buskers.

Kemptown

The undisputed gay capital of Brighton, which is the undisputed gay capital of the country. Here you’ll find St James Street, home to a stack of stores selling chic fashions, trendy home décor and the occasional pair of fairy wings, just so you remember where you are. You’ll also find the best coffees in the city at Small Batch Coffee Co.. Bohemian Kemptown hosts the annual Kemptown Carnival every June. Join in the fun of a huge street party.

See the New Year in with a bang on Brighton Beach, then stick around for the dance party the next day.

Early to mid-May welcomes the Brighton Festival – three weeks of unbridled artsy celebrations. Everything from dance, theatre, music and even circus acts fill venues around the city with people after a good time.

Hundreds of naked people on bikes? It may sound like a really bad idea for a porno but it’s actually Brighton’s World Naked Bike Ride in mid-June. This kooky event is not just a laugh but is also about fighting ‘car culture’ and highlighting the vulnerability of cyclists on the roads.

Brighton Pride is a week-long GLBT pride festival that attracts hundreds of thousands of revellers every year in late July to early August. The highlight is definitely the parade, but the park event afterwards is pretty rockin’ as well.

The Brighton and Hove Food Festival sees thousands of people falling into food comas every September. This month-long foodie’s nirvana welcomes culinary masters from around the world to come together and present classes and workshops. We suggest wearing loose clothing to accommodate the bloated belly that’s sure to ensue.

WHEN TO GO

The busiest times of the year in terms of tourists and festivals are spring and summer months. But this wouldn’t be England if you couldn’t stand in coat, hat, gloves and scarf beneath a grey sky watching grey waves washing up on a grey pebbly beach!

• Winter average: 6°C (43°F)

• Spring average: 15°C (59°F)

• Summer average: 25°C (77°F)

• Autumn average: 10°C (50°F)

WHAT TO MISS

• Alcohol-fuelled street violence is an increasing problem in Brighton (sound familiar?), so keep your wits about you and stay away from large rowdy groups that look like causing trouble.

• West Street can get particularly rambunctious on Friday and Saturday nights. There are plenty of other party venues, so unless you’re looking for a particularly un-charming crowd of youths drenched in cloyingly sweet fake cologne, steer clear.

Sitting at the end of the M23, Brighton is easy to get to by car. The only problem is parking at the end of the trip as many of the smaller hotels and B&Bs don’t provide car spaces.

Fast trains operate from London Victoria and King’s Cross (Thameslink) and most of Brighton’s attractions are within easy walking distance from the railway station. Alternatively, you can get around by bus for £2 a trip (less if you get a SAVER or CitySAVER).