Florence Hotels

Not that Michelangelo’s David (housed in the Accademia) isn’t worth visiting – if only to marvel at his truly sculpted abdomen.

But plan your time in Florence so that you have a few spare hours to spend strolling along the River Arno, wandering down back alleys of San Marco or haggling for antiques in the artisan quarter of Oltrarno. Just keep your wallet tucked deep inside your pocket while doing so – some of Florence’s inhabitants aren’t so easily distracted by the city’s beauty.

But bizarrely, it’s that human element that is such an important part of Florence’s charm. There’s a raffish quality to Florentines of both sexes, whether they are unconcernedly piloting a Vespa between manically tooting cars or knowingly admiring themselves as they stroll past boutique windows.

And it is this mix of culture and raw sex appeal that has always been Florence’s hallmarks, from the heady days of the Medici family (and the artistes they patronised: da Vinci, Botticelli, Donatello, the list goes on…) to today.

In people and places alike, Florence can be summed up in one word: style.

Florence’s Top 10

Florence Local

Florence’s reputation as a walking city is too often ignored by visitors. Hop on a bus for more than five minutes and you’ll be way out in the suburbs, so use nothing more than your feet (and maybe a map) to scope out the best districts.

San Lorenzo

So you came to see the Church of San Lorenzo? It’s the one obscured by the carts of the street sellers vending souvenirs and peddling various leather goods. The market territory of San Lorenzo is inundated with side-street stalls, and doesn’t so much pulse as it does undulate.

Put your haggling skills to use at the bustling Mercanto Centrale food market and the Via dell Ariento, and make sure you know where your wallet is at all times.

Oltrarno

Quiet, green, relaxed… the Oltrarno district is everything Florence’s city centre isn’t. Originally an artisan’s quarter, Oltrarno is still home to a few workshops and a good place to pick up an antique on the Via de Maggio – or a leather jacket if your haggling skills aren’t honed enough for San Lorenzo.

In stark contrast are the aristocratic Pitti Palace on the edge of the countryside, plus the fabulous fresco cycle of the Cappella Brancacci and the Romanesque treasure of San Miniato.

Piazza della Signoria

Florence’s civic heart is invariably swamped by tourists and the sense of confusion is only heightened by the mishmash of architectural styles. Renaissance splendour rubs shoulders with modern atrocities that have been built in the years since a Nazi commander blew up the buildings at either end of the square. Happily the Ponte Vecchio escaped destruction.

The Uffizi Galleries lie nearby, though save some time to escape the stifling summer crowds and explore the tour bus-free back alleys.

San Marco

Once open countryside beyond the old city walls, San Marco is now home to Florence’s hipsters. This lively hub of good restaurants and bars provides the perfect antidote to a mad morning at the San Lorenzo markets and an afternoon craning over the heads of others at the Accadamia.

Besides David, the San Marco Church and the tranquil greenery of the Botanical Garden in Via Micheli are worth visiting before giving your feet a rest and your stomach (and liver) a workout!

Santa Croce

The eastern edge of Florence provides a rare glimpse of the workaday city that tourists generally miss. Besides markets and workshops, the area is dominated by the great Santa Croce church and museum. Other museums include the oversized treasure chest of the Bargello Palace and the Casa Buonarroti, former home of Michelangelo.

Santa Croce is the brightest part of Florence after dark, and not just because of the hordes of trendy bars – many of the buildings are actually illuminated at night.

Florence Eat & Drink

If there’s one thing people know they love about Italy before they even go, it’s the food. Well, maybe also the accent… Happily, you can get both at the many restaurants the city has to offer.

Florence Events

The Uffizi’s Flag Throwing Company don’t just wave bits of fabric tied to a stick. Be enchanted by their skill at the Cavalcade of the Three Kings in January.

Florence’s Carnevale in February celebrates so many world cultures that the huge parade passes through about 10 different districts.

Can’t remember what you did at New Year’s? Get a second go in March for the Florentine New Year, which is more about art than alcohol.

A play of the Passion of the Christ takes place on Good Friday. 400 town residents participate, but you can just watch.

Easter Sunday is marked by an exploding cart at noon for Scoppio del Carro. If all goes well it means a lucky year ahead, so try not to lose an eye.

Maggio Musicale Florentino is the great-grandmother of Europe’s musical events, but she’s young at heart. This is the biggest cultural gathering in Florence, taking place in April and June.

June’s Calcio Storico is marked by a ‘Renaissance soccer match’ played by teams from four neighbourhoods. It’s a confusing combination of soccer, rugby, wrestling and 16^th century costumes. The party afterwards is legendary.

The Florence Dance Festival has been celebrated for centuries in June and July. Styles of dance music have changed a bit in that time, though.

The Feast Day of San Lorenzo in August is marked by an outdoor celebration, with live music and free lasagne for all visitors. Dinner is served at 9pm – get in early.

They say art should be accessible to all, and in September it is. During Settimani dei Beni Culturali,all state museums in Florence open their doors for free.

When To Go

Winter in Florence is cold and wet, with temperatures dropping to around 2°C (36°F).

Summer gets up to around 31°C (88°F), but it’s the humidity that will really make the city feel like an inferno.

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant times to visit, with temperatures ranging from 5-23°C (41-73°F).

What To Avoid

Pick-pocketing is a huge problem in Florence. You don’t have to strap your cash to your underwear, just be vigilant.

Try to choose only a few museums. Florence’s abundance of art and sculpture can be overwhelming, and it’s better to spend a day wandering the eclectic back alleys than waiting in line.

Avoid visiting any large museums at midday. This is when queues are longest.

Getting Around

Florence is a walking city – you can stroll between the top two sights in less than five minutes.

Bike tours are a great way of seeing the sights and getting a guided a tour without seeming overly touristy.

The bus system is highly efficient, but unless you’ve made an extremely bad footwear decision, you shouldn’t have to use it.

Bike rental shops also hire scooters, but if you don’t park in a marked spot you’ll get yours locked and towed.

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