Chennai (Madras) Hotels

What indubitably rises to the surface in the city once known as Madras, however, is remarkably rich Tamil culture, grand colonial and Dravidian landmarks and a dynamic Bollywood film industry. Home to stars of the silver screen and cricket oval, captains of industry, high-tech entrepreneurs, powerful politicians and influential academics, Chennai is a poster child for the New India. For travellers to Tamil Nadu, the state capital should embody much more than a mere platform to the coast and popular southern enclaves of the country.

Chennai’s Top 10

Chennai Local

Chennai (Madras) is a major metropolis and state capital that teems with over 4.6 million people. Although the core area of interest for tourists is relatively compact, it pays to run down several districts of note.

The south suburb of Alandur contains several temples of note, from Sri Veera Anjaneya to Sri Subramanya Swamy Koil.

Alwarpet is a relatively affluent residential area with numerous hotels and restaurants.

Anna Nagar is home to some of the most expensive real estate in Chennai. A commercial and residential precinct fast on the rise, with a conspicuous central landmark in Visveswaraya Tower.

Besant Nagar is home to leafy boulevards, notable temples and Elliot’s Beach.

Chepauk district contains massive M. A. Chidambaram Stadium, which holds over 75,000 cricket fans on ODI and Indian Premier League match days. The foremost area of Chennai is also home to Chepauk Palace and the University of Madras.

Egmore is home to the historic Spencer Plaza department store, prominent Chennai Egmore railway station, Connemara Public Library, Government Museum and St. Andrew’s Church.

Fort St. George, or White Town, marks the site of the first British military outpost in India. Built in the early 17th Century, the fortress area is home to the state assembly of Tamil Nadu.

George Town, or Black Town, was where colonial Madras took shape after the construction of the citadel by the British.

Guindy is the eponymous home of Guindy National Park, in addition to Raj Bhavan, the official residence of the Governor of Tamil Nadu.

Kodambakkam is a major hub of Kollywood, the Tamil film industry, and overflows with many homes of the stars.

Kovalam is a major beach destination in Tamil Nadu and some 25 km from Chennai.

Koyambedu is home to the massive Koyambedu Wholesale Market Complex.

Mount Road, or Anna Salai, is a major commercial thoroughfare that cuts through the heart of Chennai. Home to many fine hotels, shops and landmarks like Semmozhi Poonga park and St. Thomas Mount.

Mylapore is a premier Chennai cultural hub, most notably as the home of Kapaleeswarar Temple, Parthasarathy Swami Sabha and Madras Music Academy.

Nungambakkam is a wealthy residential, commercial and consulate zone.

Theagaraya Nagar is a central pulse point that lures well over half a million people to Pondy Bazaar every weekend.

Chennai Eat & Drink

As a nexus point for Tamil culture, Chennai has a host of restaurants that evince the very best of the state. Plenty of others, meanwhile, cover a rich breadth of culinary ground from all over India, Asia and the world.

Chennai Events

Chennai is a decent festival city where the usual colourful mix of Indian holidays and cultural celebrations dot the annual events calendar.

Chennai Sangamam is described by organisers as “India’s biggest city-wide festival”. Whatever the case, the five-day folk medley of art, music, dance, and food is a good reason to visit in January.

Chennai Superstars is one of only nine teams in the Indian Cricket League and play out of Mayajaal Cricket Ground. The Superstars are named after Rajinikanth, a foremost cultural icon of Tamil cinema.

The hot cricket ticket in the city, however, is for the Chennai Super Kings, the most successful franchise in the Indian Premier League.

Chennai Tennis Open is an important stop on the ATP tour that draws some of the best players on the men’s side of the game in early January, such as hometown favourite and doubles master Mahesh Bhupathi.

Arubathimoovar Festival is a sacred Hindu festival that takes place in March/April at the Kapaliswar Temple in Mylapore.

Thaipusam is a vital Hindu and Tamil full moon festival in January/February with a number of devotional rituals and processions at temples in Chennai and all over Tamil Nadu.

When To Go

Chennai’s position on the planet’s thermal equator is a telltale signal that the city confronts some vicious heat and humidity. Indeed, the mercury seldom dips below 68°F (20°C) in the Tamil Nadu capital and soars above 95°F (35°C) between May and July. The humidity, however, defines the daily grind in Chennai and can wreak havoc on even a simple stroll under the persistent sun.

A tropical wet and dry climate showers the city with consistent rainfall in the months of October and November. The two months feature almost half the annual average precipitation in Chennai but, in truth, the wet season covers July to December. While there is no real escape from the swelter of the city, January and February, with temperatures between 70°F (21°C) and 86°F (30°C) remain the most painless options.

What To Miss

Traffic, auto-rickshaw and taxi meter scams, touts and less than desirable, slummy ‘hoods all contend for top spot on the “what to miss” list in Chennai. The first, vehicular chaos, is unfortunately impossible to bypass in urban India and very much part and parcel in the capital of Tamil Nadu. Consider it all part of the experience and be patient - after all, you may be stuck in that car/bus/auto-rickshaw for quite some time.

Auto-rickshaw drivers, ever-notorious, will take liberty on occasion to demand exorbitant fares from patent non-natives. Negotiate politely and without malice or discernible rudeness in order to avoid a subsequent wild goose chase. If the driver is unreasonable, walk away. While auto-rickshaws do fine for a short trip in the city, most medium and long-term visitors simply hire a car and driver and pay one flat rate for the service.

Chennai is not altogether devoid of tenacious street entrepreneurs either. Freelance tour guides probably win the nuisance title, although a parade of plucky peddlers seem to lurk around every corner in the busy urban core of the metropolis. Just be firm and stubbornly on your way. Lastly and obviously, keep your wits and a decent map about you at all times.

Getting Around

Chennai (Madras) International Airport is the chief domestic and international gateway in the state of Tamil Nadu. The airport ranks third in all of India in passenger movements, a stat which may well change when it doubles in capacity, incredibly, after a prolific spate of terminal expansions in 2012. Important destinations on the Chennai International roster include London-Heathrow, Abu Dhabi, Bangkok-Suvarnabhumi, Brussels, Dubai, Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. From the airport, the vast majority of visitors rely on pre-paid taxis to navigate the 7 km to the big city.

Trains and buses ferry ample travellers to Chennai from a slew of usual suspects like Bengaluru (Bangalore), Hyderabad, Kolkata, Delhi and Mumbai. As a gateway to South India and the rest of Tamil Nadu, Chennai is also a major stop on the way to Coimbatore, Tirupati, Pondicherry and Thiruvananthapuram.

Congestion in Chennai is infamous, even for India, and a bit of a shock to the system. For long stays, common sense prescribes car and driver hire. Do so, however, with a reputable travel agent or hotel, not only to minimise cost but to secure the services of a reliable coachman.

The Chennai Mass Rapid Transit System (MRTS) is serviceable. Close to 80,000 daily passengers use the network for travel between Chennai Beach and Vellachery. A suburban commuter rail system also operates at full capacity in the metropolis, with 6 lines and close to 900 km of track. State government-run buses in Chennai also provide a modicum of dependable, cheap transport, above and beyond the typical mix of auto-rickshaws and taxi cabs.

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