Athens Hotels

And if you feel the need to escape, don’t hop in the next cab and head to the airport. Athens’ recent revamp has included pedestrian streets being built to replace busy roads, so leave the bustle behind and take a stroll through Archaeological Park and Dionissiou Areopagitou Street, linking the ancient monuments and creating Europe’s longest pedestrian walkway through its historic heart.

Sick of the smog? Climb the bare marble hill of Aeropagus, or scale Mount Lycabettus for views of the city that will make you want to get right back in amongst it. Although, while you’re up there, what could make you forget Athens’ cosmopolitan commotion better than gazing across the modern city to the Parthenon-topped Acropolis?

That 2500-year-old building overshadows Athens both literally and metaphorically. Symbol of the ancient culture that gave the world so much, it casts a pall over a city trying to forge a new identity.

Athens remains a city of contradictions. Simultaneously backwards-thinking and forward-looking, it is both sedate (as befits Europe’s oldest city) and vibrant. The nightlife is wild, the coffee is strong, so drink up and take your fill.

ATHENS’ TOP 10

ATHENS LOCAL

Kolonaki

The area hugging the ‘hill of wolves’ is no longer inhabited by wolves but by Athenian socialites. It follows that Kolonaki is Athens’ trendiest neighbourhood, with prices that reflect its desirability.

Emulate the lifestyle of Greek celebrities with a coffee at Café Zonar – if you’re dressed appropriately, otherwise you’d better head to Tsakalof Street first for some designer threads.

Kolonaki is also home to some of Athens’ top museums, such as the Benaki Museum, while The History of Greek Costume is one of the few places you’re guaranteed not to spot any Prada or Versace.

Plaka

If you find yourself confused about whether you’re drawn to Plaka’s ancient charm or repulsed by its commercialisation, you’re not alone – locals feel the same way. Although greatly improved by the 2004 car ban, the oldest section of Athens, shaded by the Acropolis, remains inundated with places where you will find the perfect piece of touristy junk for that friend you don’t really want to spend any money on.

Once you’ve shopped the main drags of Kidathineon and Adrianou, get a taste for real Greek fare at Vyzantino Restaurant or Planka Taverna. Just don’t overdo things – it makes climbing the steps to the historic site of Anafiotika far less pleasant.

Monastiraki

The bustling atmosphere of Monastiraki is more tolerable than in any of Athens’ other neighbourhoods, probably because it’s caused by Athenians as much as it is by tourists. It’s best to experience Monastiraki on the weekend, when hordes of locals make their way through its winding streets to sell their wares (both junk and quality) at the huge flea market.

During the week there’s also the Metropolitan Church of Athens at the centre of the Homonym Square to check out, and the pretty Agios Eleftherios – one of Athens’ best-preserved Byzantine churches.

Thissio

Lying at the foot of the Acropolis, Thissio is active yet somehow peaceful, probably also due to the greenery of Filipappou Park. The area is thick with bars, cafés and restaurants, including Kafeneio Thissio where you can find out what Greek food is really all about.

Thissio is also where you will find the Kerameikos cemetery, one of the few cemeteries in the world where you can wander around after dark without feeling like a character in a horror film.

Gazi

Sure Kolonaki is trendy, but Gazi is just plain cool. Follow Persefoni Street (bordering the gasworks) up to the plethora of cafes, bars and restaurants. Sardales seafood restaurant and the Butcher Shop are both highly rated and air-conditioned. Gazi is also home to the Technopolis of Athens, an industrial museum of modern architecture.

ATHENS EAT & DRINK

If there’s one thing the Greeks do better than drink, it’s eat. Do both at one of these restaurants.

ATHENS EVENTS

The glamorous set sip champagne on the terrace at Akrotiri between April and October, when a huge glitter ball floats in the outdoor pool.

May’s Lycabettus Festival has the most picturesque setting, offering exciting music and theatre events against the stunning backdrop of Mount Lycabettus.

The Athens Festival isn’t exactly the Olympics, but it’s pretty major. Running from June until September, it celebrates national and international culture with opera, ballet and traditional performances.

If you need an incentive to scale Mount Lycabettus, June’s International Jazz & Blues Festival provides a pretty good one.

European Music Day in June is a free event and open to anyone to wants to perform. Luckily those who decide to are usually really good.

June’s Anti-Racism Festival raises awareness of human rights and recognises the work of immigrant artists living in Greece. Dance, listen to music and enjoy art for a good cause.

Athens isn’t just fond of old stuff – in July it holds the raucous Rockwave Festival, which draws some big international acts.

The car ban in central Athens is lifted during July’s World Rally Championship – for official competitors, not visitors.

The International Aegean Sailing Rally in July is now decidedly slower, no longer being racing-only, but is still just as glamorous.

The beauty of the August Full Moon convinced the Greek Culture Ministry to deem that 55 ancient sites should remain open to the public. Hordes of people might detract slightly from their moonlit beauty, but the free concerts are fun.

WHEN TO GO

· The smog is annoying at most times of the year, but it becomes just plain oppressive when combined with the heat and humidity of summer.

· Spring and autumn are the most pleasant times to visit, when temperatures between 8 and 25°C (46-77°F) actually allow you to walk around.

· Winter temperatures don’t drop below zero, but Athens does experience occasional snowfall.

WHAT TO MISS

· Street performances are interesting, but they don’t come free. They don’t even come cheap – watch from a distance.

· Don’t plan your day around the famous changing of the guards. It’s so crowded you might not even see it.

· Don’t buy your souvenirs on the Acropolis. If you want to buy cheap tat, make sure it’s actually cheap.

GETTING AROUND

· Athens is rumoured to have 15,000 taxis, but trying to find an empty one is more difficult than it sounds.

· Athens is now blessed with a subway system accessing the city centre. Thanks, 2004 Olympics!

· Another benefit of the Olympics is that streets have become pedestrianised – so there’s no excuse not to get a bit of exercise while you check out the sites.